Southeast Asia, 2023
Our trip to South East Asia was indeed the trip of a lifetime, and once in a lifetime is enough. While the trip certainly did not disappoint as far as the wonderful sights and cultures, it was an arduous trip for two octogenarians. Oceania Cruises offered a free pre-trip to New Delhi, and since that included a visit to the fabled Taj Mahal, and the Agra Fort, we jumped at the chance and were not disappointed. The Taj Mahal is a glistening mass of white marble and semi-precious stones set amid impeccably landscaped grounds. The Taj was built to hold the remains of the kings beloved wife who died in childbirth giving birth to their 14th child. Everything in the structure and in its setting are in perfect symmetry, and despite the crowds of people, the building itself radiates a kind of quite dignity and balance that is both awe inspiring and calming at the same time. The four minarets bend slightly outward so in the event of an earth quake, they will fall away from the Taj. We were taken to the Taj so we might we might experience it as the sun rose. The soft first rays of the sun enveloped this monument to love in a soft pink glow, and the reflecting pool that sits in front of the Taj, doubled the pleasure of the experience. The Taj is flanked by two identical building of red sandstone and marble. One is a mosque, and the other is a guest house. While in Delhi, we visited the museum/home of Mahatma Gandhi, considered the father of the modern Indian nation, where the Spartan life he espoused was there for all to see. This national memorial house honors the virtues of truth, non-violence, unity and equality. His message that “all men are brothers,” reverberates through the house and the tranquil gardens surrounding it. His life in pictures, his meager bed barely off the floor, his spinning wheel, and house hold items he used were on display. He was martyred by an assassin’s bullet on January 30th, 1948. We drove through New Deli and were shown the majestic boulevards and grand government buildings. We saw India Gate, Delhi’s triumphant arch which stands at the end of the Rajpath. At the other end is the official residence of India’s President. But despite this area, one cannot avoid or ignore the grime and refuse that clutters the streets, the clogged roads filled with countless motorcycles, bikes, scooters, and cars that miss one another by inches. We also passed what can only be described as slums; shelters of coregated metal, wood and whatever else could be found to keep out the weather. Many were clustered near the airports, or under modern sky ways. One guide said that these were not slums because they had running water. That made me chuckle. Something else that made me chuckle was another guide’s clarification of the wheel in the center of the Indian flag. He said that the wheel was a symbol of progress and India moving forward. I’ve always understood that wheel to be the “wheel of life,” where everything that goes around come around and things are what they are because that’s what fate is all about. I think the cast system, though officially rejected, is still in play based upon the number disheveled young men standing around seemingly taking their living from the air. In Yiddish, these men are called “luft menchen.” The same images appeared in other Indian cities we visited. Wherever we went there were small stands selling food, goods for sale spread on the ground, and few women Our next excursion was to the Agra Fort, a World Heritage Site credited to Emperor Akbar. So unlike the delicacy and serenity of the Taj, this red sandstone fortress encompasses fairy-tale palaces, great halls, and two beautiful mosques, lovely gardens, and massive battlements. Several of the buildings are made of pure marble adorned with artistic carvings. The Emperor Akbar, India’s great 16th century visionary who built this fort was overthrown by one of his sons, and remained a prisoner there where he could look out and see his beloved Taj Mahal. There was a moat surrounding the fort that once contained alligators. Workmen and women were all over the place fixing tiles and walkways. If I recall correctly, we flew to Mumbai to pick up the ship. This major port city, like Delhi, is a city of contrasts. Beautiful soaring sky scrapers, expensive condos, and old colonial buildings recalling the years of British rule are contrasted with the slum dwellings that were just outside the airport and under elevated highways. While the traffic was just as heavy, the city seemed cleaner. The Nordica, our ship, was a mid size vessel carrying about 600 passengers, and probably more staff to keep it going. As expected, every staff member on this beautifully appointed boat was friendly, helpful, and courteous. Each greeted us with hands put together in the form of a steeple, a slight bow of respect, and the word, “namaste.” Like “shalom,” “aloha,” or “salaam” which means both “hello,” “goodby,” “peace be yours,” “welcome home,” “namaste” also means,” the divinity in me recognizes the divinity in you.” That’s very nice. This was our first voyage with Oceana Cruise Lines. The food was quite good, and there two specialty restaurants; a steak restaurant called, The Polo, and an Italian restaurant called, The Tratorria. These were available without an extra charge to travelers. We dined in The Polo twice delighting in their rib eye, their veal chops, and their prime rib. Though we were often too exhausted to wait up for the 9:30 show in the lounge, we did enjoy the performances of the two or three Broadway quality singers we did see. There were lots of activities offered, but Toby and I are not up for triva contests or ballroom dance lessons. So we did some reading on our small balcony during our days at sea. I did take time to finish my third Daniel Silva novel, and did watch some old black and white movies as well as some new films that I missed in at home. Did have some complaints. We were asked to get some sort of additional visa to get into Singapore, and there was a computer room on board, but no one available to help, and when I did get a young lady from the spa to help, the printer did not work, Happily, the information was magically transferred to our phones, so we had that to present. Another problem was the length of the walk from the boat to the terminals at many of these stops. No wheel chairs were available from the ship, and none from the terminals either. Walking was especially difficult for Toby, so we had to go very slowly wherever we went. Happily, the tour guides were very understanding and waited for us. On a few occasions, Toby stayed on the air conditioned bus while the rest of us wended our way through the crowded streets in 90 degree heat to visit the many temples and palaces on the itinerary. One of the daily activities on the ship we did occasionally involve ourselves in was the “high tea” served at 4:00 each day in the Waves lounge on the top deck. A very talented chamber quartet played for our pleasure. I had always wanted to experience the “high tea” in England, but I was too cheap to pay what I considered an exorbitant price. This experience came with the cruise. The epitome of elegance. There was also a beautifully appointed library where I had the pleasure of conducting two Friday evening service along with a gentleman from Israel. The boat graciously provided challahs, wine, and a service handout. Thirty-four showed up for the service. I recited A Woman of Valor, in English, and the gentleman from Israel recited it in Hebrew. The service was very much appreciated. Services are a good place to meet some very nice people we met the Sonnenbergs of California, and the Doners of Indiana.. The highlight of visiting the city of Cochin for me was visiting the synagogue that was built in the sixteenth century by the Jews who lived and traded spices and gems in this picturesque port city. Traders from Judea arrived in India by 652 BCE with more coming after the destruction of the 2nd Temple in 70 CE. The Jews and the local Hindu rulers had good relationships, but when the Portuguese arrived, anti-Semitism reared its ugly head. The Paradesi Synagogue, the oldest in India was built in 1568 by the Sephardic community who were expelled from Spain in 1492. The interior has been maintained, and the six crystal chandeliers, once oil have been electrified and illuminate a brass oval bima which stands in the center of the room facing an ornate wooden ark painted in red and gold. The arc is covered with a black velvet curtain with an embroidered seven branch menorah in gold, and dedicated by her children to their mother. One painting depicted the Maharajah of Travancore presenting a gold crown for the Torah in 1805. There were some interesting stores that seemed to cater to Jewish tourists, and a large hanging sign which said, “Jew Town–The ancient Jewish settlement market for art, antiques, crafts & spice.” Another read, “Thank you for visiting Jew town.” In a different setting, I might have been put off, but there wasn’t the slightest hint of contempt in this area. Another place of interest was the Mattancherry Palace which was built by the Portuguese in 1555 but now called the Dutch Palace because of the Dutch influence. Now there are two Hindu temples, one dedicated to Lord Krishna, and the other dedicated to Lord Shiva. Wonderful paintings adorn the walls depicting the events in the life of the gods and goddesses, and several of the rulers palanquins are on display along with clothing and period furnishings. Also on the tour was St. Francis Church which was the first European church to be built in India by the Franciscan friars who arrived with the Portuguese. The Dutch expelled the Portuguese and made it into a Protestant church. When the British expelled the Dutch, the church became Anglican. In 1524, the explorer Vasco Da Gama was laid to rest until his bones were taken to Lisbon in 1538 CE. There was a short cruise as part of the tour, and from the water we could see the many tall fishing nets that stretched along the coast. Colorful red and blue boats with aquamarine interiors glided up and down close to the banks where dozens of white herons waited patiently on small floats for any fish that caused a stir in the water. We cruised the Bay of Bengal and the the Andaman Sea before reaching Phuket, Thailand. Phuket is the biggest island in Thailand with world famous white sand beaches, an aquamarine ocean, and a paradise for people interested in Thi food. Our tour took us to Old Town where we could see people enjoying Thi food from the numerous eateries before they went to the sparkling sand beaches. The city is very clean, and the pink, white, aquamarine, and peach colored building generated a kind of happy feeling and a good place to be. At one intersection there was a huge white rabbit under a red pagoda wishing everyone a “happy new year.”We did have spectacular views of the ocean before climbing many stairs to view an interesting statue of one of the Hindu gods surrounded by hundreds of elephant statues of various sizes. It was quite a site. Another visit took us to the Wat Chalong Temple. It is not easy describing Siamese architecture because it is so ornate, and dazzling, with golden trees, flowers, and other motifs popping out from their stark white backgrounds. Every arch sees to be topped with a golden deity, and the multi-tiered roof stack higher and higher till they meet a golden pagoda in the center. There were men and women in the temple kneeling barefoot before three golden statues of ancient heroes draped in red sashes. The people were offering incense and candles as items of devotion along with their prayers. Again, statues of elephants were everywhere. Occasionally, a monk dressed in his traditional saffron colored robe would appear. Another stop took us to a Chinese temple which is dominated by red and gold colors. Bright red balloon type structures hung from poles and wires though out the grounds, along with massive bronze bells. Gold carved dragons guarded the entrance to the temple itself, and within, there were numerous offering of oranges, banana, pineapples, and flowers to the pantheon of gods and goddesses neatly displayed on the main alter. There were two other alters with the same offerings of veneration possibly to other deities. Our next stop was Penang, Malaysia which is known as "The Pearl of the Orient.” We took a tour of George Town where we visited the Chew Clan Jetty which is another World Heritage Site. Established by Chinese fisherman a century or two ago, only members of this clan can own property here. The houses are closed to tourists, but the shops in front of the houses are open. You walk on wooden planks because the jetty is built on stilts over the water. At the end of the jetty there is a lovely view of the bay. We also stopped at the Pinang Peranakan Mansion, which is the former house of a very wealthy Chinese Captain. The mansion is furnished with exquisite furnishings that I’ve seen before in museums in China. The dining tables are set for family celebrations, and one can image this house when the family lived there. This elite house features an eclectic array of styles that reflect the Chinese immigrants inter-marriage with the locals and created a fusion of east meets locals, hence a new tradition was borne. One room contained a very ornate marriage bed, and we were told that if the newly weds were innocent teenagers, there was an elderly and respected grandmotherly type person there to instruct them on what had to be done and encouraged them to do it. An interesting tradition. We round up the tour with a visit to visit to the Reclining Buddha Temple. This amazing gold covered statue is the 3rd longest Reclining Buddha statue in the world. The niches behind the statue house urns containing the ashes of devotees. Huge dragons made of what seemed to be colored glass over bronze guarded the temple, along with massive warrior statues with fearsome demon like faces. These were also arrayed in dazzling colors. The craftsmanship was absolutely breathtaking. The Republic of Singapore is a sovereign city-state and island country in Southeast Asia. I did not know that. It is separated from Malaysia by the Straits of Johor, and is highly urbanized with little original vegetation remaining. Modern Singapore was founded in 1819 by Sir Stamford Raffles as a trading post of the East India Company. We stopped off at the famous Raffles Hotel where we enjoyed the iconic Singapore Sling served in the famous Long Bar of the hotel. We visited a small Chinese temple called Thian Hock Keng. I think seventy-five percent of the people who live in Singapore are of Chinese descent. The temple roof is especially striking with ornate dragons on the roof protecting the building held up by large carved columns with gold capitals. Red and gold hanging lanterns hang from the over hangs, and copper oxidized green like the Statue of Liberty ages ago, cover the roof. The central alter, protected by flanking demons dressed in red and gold, holds what seemed to be a goddess. The same red lanterns that greeted visitors on the outside, were also hanging from the ornate ceiling. Chinese prayers were inscribed everywhere. Containers of orange trees laden with fruit were to honor of the new year. Singapore is perhaps the cleanest city/state in the world because there are harsh restrictions put on the inhabitants and visitors. Strictly forbidden items are pornographic materials, electronic cigarettes, weapons of any kind, fire arms or any kind of ammunition, and chewing or bubble gum. Offenders are heavily fined, and there is virtually no crime. Though harsh, these laws seem to be supported by the population who recognize the benefits to their island home. We also took a river cruise on the Singapore River in what was called a bumboat. The old shop houses along the river banks that were restored as a means of acknowledging Singapore’s heritage, were a dramatic contrast to the modern skyscrapers of the business world that were a fitting backdrops; blending the old and the new. One outstanding monument along the river bank was a massive white fish with a lions head rising out of aquamarine waves as its base. From the lion’s mouth spouted a jet of water. It might be a symbol of city. The most unusual skyscraper was really three identical buildings connected by what looked like a park spanning the three buildings Like other visits, one day of highlights was certainly not enough. I understand night life in Singapore is electric, as is the food. Would like to have experienced that. After cruising the Gulf of Thailand, we arrived a Ko Samui which is the third largest island in Thailand that has become a bustling international island resort. We opted for a visit to an elephant sanctuary that advertises itself as one that treats the animals ethically. Toby was like a happy kid, and certainly this was the highlight of the cruise for her. We were ushered into this vast compound to a covered portico where there were bowl with fruits, vegetables, a variety of grains, and we were invited to mix these together, add water, and make them into balls the size of baseballs. When that was done, we took our bowls over to the fence where a dozen or so eagerly waiting female elephants gobbled up the balls with their trunks. It was a very unique experience, not only placing the food in their trunks, watching them skillfully place the ball into swiftly into their mouths, and immediately reaching back for more. Large, supple, and grey, I was surprised that the trunks had hair on them, and felt ribbed like corduroy. We then walked to a sky way where we were able to see the three male elephants they have, and a small male from a circus learning to bond with the others. All of the elephants here had been in circuses, or worked on lumber plantations. Now they live in a semi-wild state and are cared for a mahut who is a man who dedicates his life to caring for an individual elephant. I a curious as to what kind of man would choose to dedicate himself in such a way. At another station, we were given bushels filled with favorite grasses and bananas. These were also very much appreciated by the elephants, but they sometimes dropped the grasses and ate the bananas. At one point we were taken into an enclosure where we could pet the elephants and take pictures with them. They are big yet gentle. Our final stop was bustling Bangkok, a city with fabulous golden temples and palaces, the royal palace and barges, and the emerald Buddaha which is really jade. The Royal Palace, familiar to many as the location of the true story of Anna and the King of Siam, is a massive complex of carved and gilded buildings still used by the Thai royal family. The city is a major economic and financial center of Southeast Asia and has one of the fastest rates in the world for construction of high rise buildings. We took a wonderful boat tour to view the city from the water, and marveled at the multi-tiered temples, the homes and decorative bridges. The view from the bus was no less exceptional, passing marble monuments, gold framed pictures of the king and queen, and all sorts of architectural wonders from different periods of time. Small temples dot the city streets. Bangkok’s Chinatown was crowded restaurants, people, and street hawkers, and food vendors. Colorful signs were everywhere, and I could only imagine how fantastic this area of town was at night. But when you’re on a cruise and have to get back to the ship, there isn’t much time to drink in the local culture. One highlight was visiting the temple that houses the Golden Buddaha seated in what is described as the Maravijaya Attitude. It is made of gold with a weight of 5.5 tons (5,500 kilograms). It is located in the Temple of Wat Traimit, Bangkok, Thailand. At one point in its history the statue was covered with a layer of stucco and colored glass to conceal its true value, and it remained in this condition for almost 200 years, ending up as what was then a pagoda of minor significance. During relocation of the statue in 1955, the plaster was chipped off and the gold revealed. There are many steps to get to the image, but it is certainly worth the climb. As tourists marvel at the statue, some locals kneel in devout prayer before an alter of varied offerings and candles. The temple itself is white with gold roofs. Quite wonderful against the bright blue sky, and fleecy white clouds. Oceania clearly informed the passengers about what was going on both on the boat and on the tours with a daily news letter called, “Currents.” Along with this, there was always pages of what was going on in the world. I had absolutely no complaints about this line or the friendly and helpful people they hire. We were slightly annoyed that we had a layover in Bangkok for several hours, but this turned out to our advantage because we were put up in the Antara Hotel which has to be one of the top hotels in the city, and one of the top chains in the world.. Lilly ponds with statues flanked the entrance to a magnificent lobby and a grand staircase above which was a massive wall painting depicting some moment in Thailand’s ancient history. Our room was spacious, beautifully appointed, and the bathroom could have been taken out of Architectural Digest. We ended our stay in the Bangkok Airport which is huge, beautiful, with lots of moving sidewalks. It even has an overhead train to move passengers from place to place. There are many duty free shops, plenty of food opportunities, and very high class boutiques. |
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